Struggling to sew zipper pockets that don’t end up crooked or puckered? In this beginner-friendly bagmaking blog, I’m sharing my go-to trick for clean, professional zipper pocket installation using double-sided sewing tape. It’s the confidence boost you need if zippers make you nervous—and yes, there’s even a video tutorial included!
Ready to conquer your fear of zippers? Download the free Sunset Zipper Pouch sewing pattern designed for confident beginners! Learn professional zipper techniques, explore trusted bagmaking supplies, and start building your sewing confidence—one pouch at a time.
If you’ve ever wished your bag had just a bit more organization, you’re in the right place. Today, I’m sharing a quick and easy way to add a slip pocket to any bag lining, taking your handmade tote to the next level. Whether you're sewing for yourself or creating a gift, this little addition is sure to make your bag more functional and fabulous!
A slip pocket not only makes your bag more organized but also adds a professional touch. It’s perfect for stashing your phone, keys, or even a notebook. Best of all, you can make the pocket any size you need, allowing for endless customization.
Decide how large you want your pocket to be. A good rule of thumb is to make the pocket slightly smaller than the width of the bag’s lining panel.
For example:
Cut your fabric piece twice the desired height of the pocket plus ½” for seam allowances. For example, for a 6” x 8” pocket, cut a piece 12½” x 9”. For this post, I'm adding slip pockets to my EASY CHARM TOTE, and I want my pocket to measure around 7h" X 14 1/2"w. So I cut my cotton fabric and SF 101 to measure 14½”w X 15"h.
If you want your pocket to have structure, fuse the SF 101 or other lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of your fabric before sewing.
Topstitch along the folded edge of the pocket for a clean finish. One row of topstitching an 1/8" away from the finished edge keeps it from rolling - use a longer stitch length. I added one row 1/8" away from finished edge, then added another row 1/4" away from my original topstitch.
Adding a slip pocket is a small detail that makes a big difference. It’s quick, easy, and elevates the overall look and functionality of your handmade bag. Plus, the personalization possibilities are endless!
Try adding a slip pocket to your next project, and let me know how it turns out. I’d love to see your creations—tag me on social media @BeMandyThings!
Are you a beginner bag maker looking for a way to make your bags stand out? Let me introduce you to Chenille It, a magical product that can add texture, dimension, and a touch of whimsy to your handmade bags. I’ve recently tried it with my Easy Charm Tote Pattern and Sunset Zipper Pouch Pattern, and the results are nothing short of fabulous! In this post, I’ll guide you through how to use Chenille It and share some tips for incorporating it into your projects.
Chenille It is a soft, precut fabric strip that fluffs up when washed, creating a textured, chenille-like effect. It’s perfect for adding a cozy, quilted vibe to your bags while keeping things simple and beginner-friendly. Plus, it comes in a variety of colors, and a 3/8" or 5/8" width option, so you can customize it to suit any fabric or design.
Choose Placement: You will want at least 2 strips of Chenille It for each area you choose to add texture. The more strips you use, the fluffier the project. For the Easy Charm Tote, I recommend applying it to the charm square and top border seams.
Stitch it Down: I used a glue stick to apply glue to the center of the seams, then placed 2 strips of Chenille It on top. Sew the Chenille It strips in place using a straight stitch down the center of the strip. Make sure it’s securely attached but not over-stitched.
Here's a completed exterior panel with Chenille It applied:
Fluff It: You can achieve the fluffy, signature texture in one of two ways. Chenille It is designed to fluff when you wash and dry your project. You could wash and dry the tote panels to get the fluff. However, I'm not patient enough, and have found that using an old wire eyebrow brush achieves the same look in a fraction of the time.
I simply place the wire teeth of the brush and gently scrape in a back and forth motion until the tape "blooms". Do this gently, if you are too rough, you will end up scraping it all off. But, if you do, it's very easy to sew more on and have it look seamless. Here's a quick video showing you how to do it:
Finish Your Bag: Complete the assembly of your Easy Charm Tote as per the pattern instructions.
For the Sunset Zipper Pouch, Chenille It works wonderfully along the striped pattern for added flair. Follow the same steps as above, adapting the placement to your pouch design.
I’d love to see how you use Chenille It to enhance your Easy Charm Tote or Sunset Zipper Pouch! Share your photos on Instagram and tag me @bemandythings. Who knows? Your creation might inspire the next beginner bag maker!
With Chenille It, leveling up your bags is easier and more fun than ever. Whether you’re making a tote for a weekend market or a pouch for your everyday essentials, this simple addition can take
Chenille It is a soft, precut fabric strip that fluffs up when washed, creating a textured, chenille-like effect. It’s perfect for adding a cozy, quilted vibe to your bags while keeping things simple and beginner-friendly. Plus, it comes in a variety of colors, and a 3/8" or 5/8" width option, so you can customize it to suit any fabric or design.
Choose Placement: You will want at least 2 strips of Chenille It for each area you choose to add texture. The more strips you use, the fluffier the project. For the Easy Charm Tote, I recommend applying it to the charm square and top border seams.
Stitch it Down: I used a glue stick to apply glue to the center of the seams, then placed 2 strips of Chenille It on top. Sew the Chenille It strips in place using a straight stitch down the center of the strip. Make sure it’s securely attached but not over-stitched.
Here's a completed exterior panel with Chenille It applied:
Fluff It: You can achieve the fluffy, signature texture in one of two ways. Chenille It is designed to fluff when you wash and dry your project. You could wash and dry the tote panels to get the fluff. However, I'm not patient enough, and have found that using an old wire eyebrow brush achieves the same look in a fraction of the time.
I simply place the wire teeth of the brush and gently scrape in a back and forth motion until the tape "blooms". Do this gently, if you are too rough, you will end up scraping it all off. But, if you do, it's very easy to sew more on and have it look seamless. Here's a quick video showing you how to do it:
Finish Your Bag: Complete the assembly of your Easy Charm Tote as per the pattern instructions.
For the Sunset Zipper Pouch, Chenille It works wonderfully along the striped pattern for added flair. Follow the same steps as above, adapting the placement to your pouch design.
I’d love to see how you use Chenille It to enhance your Easy Charm Tote or Sunset Zipper Pouch! Share your photos on Instagram and tag me @bemandythings. Who knows? Your creation might inspire the next beginner bag maker!
With Chenille It, leveling up your bags is easier and more fun than ever. Whether you’re making a tote for a weekend market or a pouch for your everyday essentials, this simple addition can take your project to the next level. Ready to give it a try? Grab your pattern, pick up some Chenille It, and let your creativity shine!
Transforming your living space can be as simple as adding a pop of color or a cozy touch with new pillow covers. An envelope closure pillow cover is a perfect project for beginners or anyone looking to refresh their decor without zippers or buttons. This blog post will guide you through the steps of sewing your own beautiful pillow cover with an envelope closure, and how to add binding to the closure panel for a fancy finish.
For this project, I'll be using pre-made binding from Bessie Pearl Binding Co. A small online business, Bessie Pearl offer pre-made bias quilt binding and bias tape made from high-quality fabrics to provide the perfect finishing touch for your handmade quilts, garments, or other handcrafts.
A PDF version of this pattern is available for purchase on my website or Etsy shop - click the button below to check it out!
Before you start: Some may wonder whether pre-washing your fabric is necessary. I never do, but have occasionally had a pillow cover that shrunk a little too much in the dryer. It's up to you. However, I do recommend ironing your fabric before cutting so your cuts are accurate.
The following directions show you how to use pre-made binding for the pillow back. If you want to use your own, cut a strip 2.5" x 17". Fold the wrong sides together along the 17" side and continue with directions.
Your pillow cover is complete! Enjoy!
If you like this blog tutorial, make sure to join my email list! Stay updated on new pattern releases, ready to ship items, and a complimentary zipper pouch pattern!
Prepare for BBQ Season with Benartex Fabrics' Chillin' & Grillin' Collection! As a Brand Ambassador for Benartex Fabrics, I was lucky to get to play with this collection that is perfect for summer and all of the cook-outs coming up. The best part is you don’t have to leave your sewing room to enjoy some delicious barbecue! Burgers, hot dogs, shrimp and veggies - there is everything you need to create fun aprons, grill mitts, potholders, placemats and more for your backyard feasts. Click the logo to visit the collection!
This quick tutorial will show you how to make 4 placemats - they only take a few hours from start to finish - so you could whip these up in the morning and have a decked out table by afternoon!
Mix & Match 
Reversible Placemats 
Same Top/Bottom
If you're more of a visual learner, I've got a quick video tutorial on my You Tube Channel - Check it out!
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Make sure to pre-wash your fabric to prevent any post-sewing shrinkage!
1️⃣ Begin with 2 yards of fabric (or 1 yard each for reversible). Make sure it is washed and pressed before cutting, then lay out flat on cutting mat.
2️⃣ Cut placemats at 19”W x 14”H, following fabric direction.
14" Tall 
19" Wide
This collection includes a border stripe, which I used to cut 4 placemats. PRO TIP!!! Pay VERY careful attention to fabric direction when cutting measurements, remember 19" WIDE by 14" TALL.
3️⃣ INTERFACING:
Let's take a minute to talk about different types you can use. Depending on what look you are going for when completed will be determined by the type of interfacing you use. I have made many placemats, and I really like the finished look and feel of Pellon 911F. It's not too fluffy, not too rigid, and gives the placemat some structure without being stiff. Choose what works best for you.
Once you have chosen your interfacing, cut out 4 pieces measuring the same dimensions as the placemat, 19"W x 14"H.
Now you may adhere the interfacing to the wrong side of the top fabric, according to manufacturer's instructions. If using batting, you can spray baste or pin, or move on to step 4.
PRO TIP! Make sure if interfacing is fusible, bumpy side is up (ask me how I know), this is the glue side that will adhere to the fabric.
4️⃣ It's time to start assembling the placemats!
Place a top and bottom piece right sides together (RST).
Choose a side to create the opening where you will be turning the placemat out after it is sewn together. I usually like to make the opening a little bigger than my hand.
I place 4 fingers on a side, and mark above and below for the opening. You will not be sewing over this section, so make sure you pay attention to your marks, or you will sew the placemat completely shut and not be able to turn it out.
Pin or clip around the outer edges of the placemat, just to keep the edges lined up until you get it to your sewing machine. 
Once you have the placemat at your sewing machine, start sewing at the bottom of the opening mark, using a 1/2" seam allowance (SA), making sure to backstitch a few times. Make sure you did not sew closed your opening!
Sew around all the sides of the placemat, stopping at the top of the opening, and backstitch again.
Do this for all placemats.
5️⃣ Here's where the magic happens! Part of the reason the seam allowance is so big, is for this trick right here.
PRO TIP!! At the opening, you will cut away some of the seam allowance. This will create a tab, that will be folded in once you turn out the placemat, and helps for a smooth, straight edge of the finished placemat.
If it helps, draw a line like I did here as a guide for how to cut into the seam allowance. I like to live on the edge, and I use my rotary cutter, but I've also done this many times with placemats and bagmaking. If you're nervous, draw the line, and use scissors to cut away seam allowance.
You will end up with a "tab" which will make it easy to insert the seam allowance into the hole after it is turned out, making for a smooth, straight closing.
Cut away the seam allowance from the four corners, taking care not to cut into the seam.
Reach your hand in to an opposite corner, grab hold and pull placemat inside out.
Pop out the corners with a sharp tool, but do not poke a hole in the corners.
Once completely turned, with corners poked out, roll the edges of the seams with your fingers to help flatten before taking to the iron to press. PRO TIP! Another reason the seam allowance is 1/2" is to help with rolling the seams to make them flat. I've sewed these using 1/4" SA, as well as 3/8" SA, and it is a struggle to get perfectly flat seams. This is why I like the 1/2" SA.
Also, finger press the extra seam allowance at the opening to help keep it inside before pressing.
Press placemat to flatten seams, as well as opening.
6️⃣ Topstitch to close the opening, using a 3.5 mm stitch length. I like to topstitch 3 times. I sew once around using a 1/8" SA. From that stitch line, I will sew another row 1/4" away from that stitch. Then, I will sew a 1/2" away from the previous 1/4" stitch line. See examples below.
Topstitch 1/8" from edge
Topstitch 1/4" away from previous 1/8" stitch line
Topstitch 1/2" away from previous 1/4" stitch line
Final showing all 3 topstitch lines
7️⃣ Your placemat is done! Final measurements should be 13"H x 18"W. Enjoy your new summer table! Feel free to leave a comment, share with a sewing bestie or ask a question.
Happy Sewing!
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