Let’s Talk Interfacing—Without the Headache
If you’ve ever stood in the interfacing aisle feeling like you needed a translator, this post is for you. Interfacing is one of those things beginner bagmakers know they need, but it often feels like a mystery wrapped in fusible webbing. I’m here to fix that.
Below is a breakdown of the most common (and my favorite!) interfacings in the bagmaking world—including what they’re best for, how they feel, how to mix them, and what types of bag patterns they work best with. I’ll even share international equivalents, how to layer them for different looks, and a few insider tips that will take your bagmaking to pro level.
What it is: A woven fusible interfacing made from cotton, designed to add body and structure to lighter-weight fabrics.
Features:
Why I love it: It fuses smoothly, feels like part of the fabric (because it basically is), and gives cotton fabric a polished, professional finish. It’s also super versatile—you’ll reach for it again and again.
Best for: Quilting cotton, lightweight canvas, linen—great for turning soft fabrics into something more stable.
Perfect for: My Joanna Tote pattern and other tote bags, zipper pouches, wallets, beginner bags, linings.
Mix it with: Fusible Thermolam or Foam Interfacing for structure, or Decor Bond if you want more crispness.
Other US Brands: Bosal® Fashion Fuse
Non-US equivalent:
What it is: A felt-like, needled polyester interfacing with fusible adhesive on one side.
Features:
Why I love it: It adds just the right amount of puff and structure to your bags. Not too thick, not too thin—it’s the Goldilocks of interfacings. Great for bagmakers who want soft but supported structure.
Best for: Exteriors of tote bags, quilted exteriors, diaper bags, everyday pouches.
Perfect for: My Sunset Zipper Pouch Pattern, or beginner-friendly bags where foam might feel intimidating.
Mix it with: SF101 on the fabric side for an ultra-smooth finish.
Other US Brands: Bosal® Thermolam
Non-US equivalent:
What it is: A low-loft polyester fleece with fusible adhesive on one side, designed to add softness and stability.
Features:
Why I love it: It’s perfect for linings and interior panels—where you want the bag to feel soft but still structured. It gives your bag a cozy feel inside and helps keep the shape gentle.
Best for: Linings, padded pockets, lunch bags, fabric baskets, baby bags.
Perfect for: Quilted totes, like my Starry Tote Bag or Easy Charm Tote, soft-sided zipper pouches, organizer inserts.
Mix it with: SF101 or Decor Bond for extra hold.
Other US Brands: Bosal® In-R-Form Fusible Fleece
Non-US equivalent:
What it is: A unique, leather-like interfacing with a smooth surface and firm body. It’s non-woven, fusible, and has a papery feel before fusing.
Features:
Why I love it: It’s my go-to when I want a bag to stand tall and proud. It’s especially useful in wallets, satchels, and cases where you want sharp edges and no slouch. Just fuse it properly (with a press cloth and lower heat!) and you’ll love the result.
Best for: Structured handbags, satchels, clutch bags, notebook covers, structured organizers.
Perfect for: Stand-up purses, hard-sided make-up bags, storage cases.
Mix it with: SF101 underneath to prevent bubbling and ensure smooth adhesion.
Non-US equivalent:
What it is: A soft yet dense foam sandwiched between two thin fabric layers. Adds loft, shape, and structure without bulk or stiffness. My pick is ByAnnie’s Soft & Stable®.
Features:
Why I love it: Not all foams are created equal. I’ve tried others, but Soft & Stable wins—every time. It holds its shape beautifully and gives your bag that boutique, bounce-back feel. It also folds well when needed and doesn't wrinkle.
Best for: Large tote bags, backpacks, diaper bags, gym bags.
Perfect for: Stand-up bags with soft corners and strong bodies.
Mix it with: SF101 on your fabric first to prevent stretching and warping.
Other US Brands:
Non-US equivalent:
What it is: A crisp, fusible interfacing with a papery texture. It’s non-woven and stiffens fabric immediately upon fusing. Fusible side is shiny.
Features:
Why I (sometimes) love it: It’s a love-it-or-leave-it kind of interfacing. On its own, it can feel a little cardboard-y. But layered under SF101 or used in strategic spots (flaps, pockets, backs of pouches), it really shines. I also love using it for making bag straps if I'm using fabric. However, I find that this particular interfacing commonly leaves me with bubbles and wrinkles that won't iron out, no matter what I do.
Best for: Structured panels, pouches, bag flaps, straps.
Perfect for: Wallets, slim pouches, notebook covers, bag bases.
Mix it with: SF101 underneath to reduce the cardboard feel and help it fuse evenly.
Other US Brands: Bosal® Craft-Tex
Non-US equivalent:
What it is: A needle-punched polyester interfacing with a reflective metallic layer designed to retain heat or cold.
Features:
Why I use it: It’s essential for any project involving food, drink, or temperature-sensitive items. It gives your handmade lunch bag actual function, not just form.
Best for: Insulated lunchboxes, snack bags, wine totes, bottle carriers.
Perfect for: My Let’s Eat Lunchbox pattern, thermal pouches, insulated storage.
Mix it with: SF101 to stabilize the fabric, and Fusible Fleece for soft interior finish.
Non-US equivalent:
What it is: A super firm, heavyweight stabilizer that adds serious structure. It comes in single-sided (71F) or double-sided (72F) fusible options.
Features:
Why I use it: I don’t use Peltex throughout an entire bag—but it’s perfect when I sew an extra bottom panel for a tote and want it to stand firm without needing a removable base insert. Think diaper bags, structured gift baskets, or anything that needs a flat, sturdy base.
Best for:
Tip: If sewing through it feels too thick, try trimming it slightly smaller than your fabric piece and basting it to the seam allowance instead.
Other US Brands:
Sew Lazy® Stiff Stuff™
Non-US equivalent:
Here’s a cheat sheet of my favorite tried-and-true interfacing combos. These are the blends I use again and again to get different looks, structures, and that professional finish:
👜 For tote bags that feel boutique-quality:
SF101 + Fusible Thermolam (exterior) + Fusible Fleece (lining)
Creates a sturdy, structured exterior and a soft, plush lining. Perfect for everyday totes and quilted gift baskets.
🎒 For structured satchels or organizers:
SF101 + Decovil Light or Heavy
Gives clean lines, sharp curves, and a handbag-level finish. Use Decovil Light for flexibility or Heavy for a true stand-up bag.
🧳 For squishy, stand-up bags (without stiffness):
SF101 + Soft & Stable
Adds bounce and shape without weight. Great for travel bags, backpacks, or anything that needs to hold its shape while staying soft.
🧵 For thin cottons that need crispness:
SF101 + Decor Bond
Ideal for wallets, flaps, or simple pouches when you want clean lines and a smooth surface.
🥪 For lunch bags or snack totes:
SF101 + Insulated Interfacing + Fusible Fleece
Insulates the inside, supports the outside, and makes the whole bag functional and adorable.
📥 Want This Info in a Handy Printable?
Grab my free Bagmaking Interfacing Cheat Sheet! It includes structure levels, mixing tips, and what types of bags each one is best for—all in one page.
✨ Fuse in layers, not all at once. Start with SF101 on the fabric, then add the other layers carefully to avoid wrinkles or bubbles.
✨ Let each layer cool flat. Don’t rush! Let your interfacing fully adhere and cool before sewing or flipping. It prevents shifting and keeps the final bag clean.
✨ Trim down seam allowances. Interfacing can add bulk, especially when layered. Trim back layers from seams to keep corners crisp and seams flat.
✨ Always use a pressing cloth. Especially with Decovil or fusible fleece—protect your fabric and your iron!
✨ Test first. If you’re unsure how a combo will feel, make a small sample sandwich and test it before cutting all your pieces.
Final Thoughts: Interfacing Doesn’t Have to Be Overwhelming
You don’t need 37 types of interfacing in your stash. Just a few trusted go-tos can give you all the structure, polish, and “did you really make that?!” compliments you’re after.
Bookmark this guide and come back to it whenever you’re staring down a supply list—or better yet, send it to your sewing bestie who’s afraid of Decovil.
Looking for beginner-friendly PDF sewing patterns that tell you exactly what interfacing to use and where to use it? Shop my Patterns➡ HERE.
If this interfacing guide has you excited to start your next bag project—why not grab a freebie to go with it?
💌 Sign up for my email list and get BOTH:
🧵 The Sunset Zipper Pouch Pattern – perfect for building zipper confidence
📋 The Bag Maker Supply Chart – a clickable guide to my favorite trusted shops
No spam. Just helpful tips, beginner-friendly patterns, and bagmaking secrets straight from my sewing room to yours.
Let me know if this was helpful for you in figuring out the complicated world of interfacing - hopefully, you have a better understanding! Drop a comment! ⬇
#BagMakingTips #InterfacingForBags #BagMakingForBeginners #BeMandyThings #HandmadeBagPatterns #FusibleInterfacing #SewingWithStructure #ToteBagSewingPattern #LunchBagPattern #InsulatedBagSewing
Comments will be approved before showing up.
Think you need an industrial machine to sew through foam, cork, or vinyl? Not true. Learn the best needles for bagmaking and how a simple swap can give you professional results on a regular sewing machine.
