Start Sewing Bags with Confidence

Start Sewing Bags with Confidence

Join the Be Mandy Things community and grab your free zipper pouch pattern—plus bagmaking tips, resources & subscriber-only perks!

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Bagmaking Tips & Techniques for Beginner Sewers

The Needle Swap That Changed My Bagmaking (No Fancy Machine Required)

by Amanda Whisman July 14, 2025

The Needle Swap That Changed My Bagmaking (No Fancy Machine Required)

One of the biggest beginner bagmaker myths I hear is: "I need a heavy-duty machine to sew bags that look store-bought."

I get it—when you're wrestling with thick seams or skipping stitches, it feels like your machine just isn't cut out for the job. But here's the truth: most of the time, it's not your machine... it's your needle.

In this post, I’ll walk you through exactly which needles to use (and when), why they matter, and how this one swap can level up your bagmaking overnight. I'll even share a free printable infographic you can keep by your machine!


Why Your Needle Matters in Bagmaking A universal needle is like a Swiss Army knife: okay at a lot of things, but not great at any one job.

When you're sewing through foam, interfacing, canvas, vinyl, or cork—you need a needle that can punch through those layers cleanly. Otherwise, you get:

  • Skipped stitches
  • Thread shredding
  • Broken needles
  • Fabric shifting or wrinkling
  • That dreaded thunk-thunk-thunk sound

The right needle = smoother stitches, fewer headaches, and bags that actually look like you bought them from a boutique.


The Best Sewing Machine Needles for Bagmaking

Here are the needle types I reach for in my own bagmaking studio (and exactly when to use them):

👉 Jeans/Denim Needles (90/14 and 100/16)

Use for:

  • Sewing through foam interfacing (like ByAnnie's Soft and Stable, Pellon Flex-Foam, or Bosal)
  • Layering canvas or waxed canvas with foam or fusible interfacing
  • Sewing through strap connectors and tabs with multiple layers
  • Binding thick bags or sewing around boxed corners

Needle choice:

  • 90/14 for quilt cotton + foam or canvas + lining
  • 100/16 when sewing over straps, cork + foam, or vinyl + cotton + foam (multi-layer)

These needles have a reinforced shaft to prevent bending and allow cleaner, more accurate stitching through thick seams.

Recommended brands: Schmetz, Klasse, Organ, all available in regular or Chrome finish

These are my absolute go-to needles for bagmaking. If your machine is skipping stitches or struggling through seams, swap in a jeans needle first before panicking.

👉 Microtex (Sharp) Needles (80/12 or 90/14)

Use for:

  • Topstitching waterproof canvas, cork, vinyl, or cotton where visibility matters
  • Sewing exterior panels made of interfaced quilting cotton
  • Precision work like zippers or decorative stitching

Needle choice:

  • 80/12 for tightly woven quilting cotton, especially when paired with a stabilizer or light interfacing
  • 90/14 for cork or vinyl when seams are flat

Microtex needles help avoid skipped stitches on dense materials without the drag or dull punch of a universal needle.  I often use Microtex needles when I'm working with cork or want my stitches to really shine on the outside of a bag.

👉 Leather Needles (80/12, 90/14, 100/16)

Use for:

  • Faux leather, real leather, and leather-look vinyl
  • Leather straps, flaps, tabs, wallets, or thick trims

Needle choice:

  • 80/12 for soft faux leather or thin leather overlays
  • 90/14 for medium-weight faux leather and layered seams
  • 100/16 for real leather or multilayer faux leather + interfacing

Leather needles have a chisel-point (wedge-shaped) tip designed to slice through leather rather than pierce it. This reduces stress on your machine and gives a clean cut without tearing or skipping. These needles should not be used on woven fabric, as they can damage the fibers.

Recommended brand: Schmetz Leather Needles (available in multi-size packs for testing)


When Your Machine Might Be Telling You It's the Needle Your machine doesn’t speak, but it definitely tries to tell you when something's off. If you notice any of these, it might be time for a needle swap:

  • Thread is looping underneath or skipping on top
  • The needle makes a punching noise when sewing foam or thick layers
  • You have to pull your fabric through
  • Stitches look uneven, even with correct tension
  • You just broke a needle for the third time today

Shop My Favorite Needles Want to try the exact needles I use in my own studio? I've made it easy with a curated Amazon list: you'll find the Schmetz Jeans needles, Microtex options, and even Chrome-finish versions I rely on every day.

🧵 👉 SHOP MY CURATED NEEDLES FOR BAGMAKING LIST

Shopping through this link supports my business at no extra cost to you. Thank you for helping me share more tips, patterns, and freebies!

Needle Comparison Chart

💌 Want to Keep This Handy?

I made this printable version of the Needle Guide so you can keep it by your sewing machine, pin it to your wall, or save it to your phone for easy reference.

If you're learning bagmaking and want more cheat sheets like this (plus beginner-friendly patterns, sewing tips, and confidence-boosting tricks), I’d love to send them your way.

👉 Join my newsletter to download the free printable version of this guide!


Helpful Add-Ons for Sewing Thick Layers Pair your needle upgrade with these beginner-friendly tools:

Walking foot or even-feed foot

Hump jumper or seam leveling tool

Longer stitch length (3.0–3.5mm for topstitching)

A rubber mallet to flatten seams


Ready to Sew with Confidence? If you’re just starting out, you don’t need a machine upgrade. You need the right tools, the right tips, and a pattern designed with beginners in mind.

Start with one of my favorite beginner patterns:

Sunset Zipper Pouch (perfect for practicing with a Microtex! And it's FREE!)

Joanna Tote (great for cork or faux leather + jeans needle practice)

👉 SHOP ALL PATTERNS


Want More Pro Tips Like This? I send out quick, helpful bagmaking tips to my email list every week. You’ll get:

Free beginner-friendly patterns

Exclusive blog tutorials

Cheat sheets like this one

📧JOIN MY NEWSLETTER

Let’s sew bags that look as good as the ones you’d buy—with the tools you already have.



Amanda Whisman
Amanda Whisman

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Also in Bagmaking Tips & Techniques for Beginner Sewers

The Ultimate Guide to Interfacing for Bagmaking
The Ultimate Guide to Interfacing for Bagmaking

by Amanda Whisman July 01, 2025

Confused about interfacing? You're not alone. Here's the beginner-friendly, no-fluff guide to understanding which interfacing does what, when to use it, and how to mix them for magical, boutique-style bags.

Continue Reading

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