Better bagmaking usually comes down to smaller things than people expect. Which needle you're using. How you've chosen and layered your interfacing. Whether your stitch length is right for the layers you're sewing through. How you're handling the bulk at seams and corners. Whether your lining has a little extra room to sit the way it should.
When those things click into place, the sewing gets easier and the finished bag looks the way you wanted it to look.
Sew Better Bags is the 30+ page digital guide I created to put that practical information in one place — the stuff I wish someone had told me when I was teaching myself to make bags.
It's a question I hear a lot, and it makes complete sense. Bagmaking asks different things of a sewing machine than quilting or garment sewing. You're working with interfacing on almost every piece. You're sewing through multiple layers that include interfaced fabric, lining, stabilizer, sometimes cork, canvas or faux leather. Seams build up quickly. Bulky spots appear where you least expect them.
If you learned to sew on a quilting or garment project first, none of that is automatically familiar. The needle that worked perfectly for cotton quilting might not be the right call for a bag with four interfaced layers. The stitch length that looks great on a blouse might not give you the clean topstitching you want on a structured tote.
A lot of the time, the answer isn't immediately buying a different machine. It's changing the needle. Adjusting the stitch length. Rethinking the interfacing choice. Handling the bulk differently before it even gets to the machine.
I figured most of this out the slow way — through trial, error, unpicking, and paying attention to what actually changed the result. I put it into Sew Better Bags because I didn't want other bagmakers to have to piece it all together themselves.
Rather than walking through the eBook chapter by chapter, here's the kind of bagmaking problems it helps you sort out.
Interfacing is probably the topic I get the most questions about, and for good reason — there are a lot of options, and the difference between a structured bag and a floppy one often comes down to which interfacing you chose and whether you layered it. The guide covers how I think about interfacing selection, the combinations I use to get structure without making a bag impossible to sew, and how fusible versus sew-in affects the finished result.
This sounds simple, but it genuinely changes things. The guide covers my go-to needle sizes for everyday bagmaking, what I reach for when sewing heavier layers, and what to consider when working with materials like faux leather. Using the right needle for the job is one of those small changes that makes an immediate difference.
A lining that fits well doesn't happen by accident. The guide covers the tapering technique I use to adjust lining seams so there's less excess fabric bunching up inside the finished bag. It's a straightforward adjustment that makes a noticeable difference, especially on structured bags with more rigid outer shells.
Seam bulk is one of the most common sources of frustration in bagmaking. The guide covers seam grading, when and why to adjust stitch length for different layers, pressing techniques that help you get flat seams on thicker fabric stacks, and how zipper tabs can help manage the bulk at zipper ends. These are the kinds of small construction adjustments that add up across an entire bag.
The guide includes practical information on bagmaking supplies and tools, including polyester thread (why it matters for bags specifically), working with faux leather and heavier materials, and supplier information based on what I actually use. This section is built around what genuinely helps rather than an exhaustive list of everything that exists.

Sew Better Bags doesn't teach you how to make one specific bag. It teaches the underlying techniques that apply across many different bags and bag patterns.
You can use it alongside my Be Mandy Things patterns. You can use it while working through patterns from other designers. The information about interfacing, needles, seam grading, lining fit and construction isn't specific to any single pattern — it's about understanding how bagmaking works so you can apply what you know to whatever you're sewing next.
That's what I mean when I say it's a reference. You don't read it once and set it aside. You come back to it when you're starting a new project, trying a new material, or working through something that isn't turning out the way you expected.
"It solved my baggy linings and explained the different interfacings. Love it!"
"Just exactly what I wanted to help me make better bags! Great resource and very clearly written out. A worthwhile purchase."
"Thank you for writing this book. It clearly spells out the importance of interfacing and what type to use for a specific project."
"I enjoy making bags and appreciate the time that went into curating this advice from a seasoned bag maker."
"The tips and tricks to make it turn out right are amazing. It's the best bag I've ever made."
My teaching is built entirely around helping sewists get better results with the machine they already own. I'm not sewing on an industrial machine or a high-end specialty setup. I'm working with a domestic machine, the same way most of the people asking me bagmaking questions are.
That doesn't mean every domestic machine can power through every combination of materials without adjustment — it can't, and I'm not going to tell you otherwise. But it does mean that struggling with bag layers isn't automatically a reason to buy a different machine.
Sometimes you just need somebody to tell you, "Try a 90/14 needle. Lengthen that topstitch. Grade that seam."

30+ pages of practical bagmaking help you can come back to project after project.
$17.97
Get Sew Better BagsIf you want to get a feel for how I teach before you buy, these free resources are a good place to start.
Both are free. No purchase necessary.
